Nut Issues.
#1
This is the only place where one can mention “ nut issues “ and it’s quite normal. Anyway, love my 810 archtop but finally getting around to addressing a serious problem. While jumping on any full chord I find myself with a very annoying problem....pushing the low E off the neck as well as pulling the high e off the neck. Looking at the nut, it appears to have been put on by a toddler.....cut incorrectly, spacing is horribe.....pretty sure this was not the work of Eastman as all my other Eastmans are spot on perfect. Any suggestions as what to look for in replacing the nut ?[Image: 57spobCl.jpg][Image: cXoSmJcl.jpg]
#2
The high E looks to be in closer to the center of the FB than my two Eastmans, maybe it's an optical illusion because the position of the camera lens may not be dead centered? If you look near the truss rod cover you can see little splinter/ shards where the original nut was removed and a chip between the A and D strings show that you may be right, and a "toddler" may have done the work :-)

But the spacing between the strings looks OK with the exception they are all a bit too far away from the high E, it's likely that when you replace the nut that low E may issue correct itself. I say may because if the high E is in fact as close to the center of the FB as it appears, I don't know what will correct the pulling of the string off the fret.

I have only one negative preference in nut material, it's "Corian" that belongs on kitchen counter tops. As far as replacing yours bone seems to be a good OEM choice and I am happy with all of my gits with it.
Regards,

   Gary
#3
I am no expert, but cannot stand nut issues as well. The low E through G are not seated properly. That is why the low E is popping out. Not sure why the high E is since it "looks" like it is in deep enough. Replace the nut and all well be fine.
E10ss/v 02/23/23
SB55DC/v 03/15/23
#4
I agree with Gary's thought of it not being orig....

Best pic I could find of my former AR810ce for compare, likely need a new nut. Just wondering if the nut slots are a tad too shallow, never had an issue with my AR810 or with the current AR880ce. I use cotton string, unravel to the size of the slot... dip in water, squeeze out excess, then dip in fine pumice powder, go back/forth in the slot towards the side of the tuning post where string winds. Cuts slowly but take care not to go too deep, also the best way I know to smooth a slot so windings don't catch... bing.

Also, where the string comes off the nut going towards the tuner post... yours doesn't look to be rounded like it should? First 1/8" is shaped like a saddle. Never seen an Eastman nut shaped like that.

[Image: UrvwJvQ.jpg]
#5
Thanks all for the very informative replies. I never gave to much thought to the nut shape being that all my other guitars are just fine. But as noted, both the actual curve and lack of proper string depth ( seating ) appear to be contributing factors. Replacing the nut will definitely be a worthy project.....think I will order more than one to assure I have it just right.
#6
I'm no expert either, but def looks after market. Good luck with the replacement nut.
"It's only castles burning." -- Neil Young
#7
This is the way a rounded nut should look. The nut slots should be smooth and angle towards the winding side of the tuner post. Anything other can cause badly noise and binding.

[Image: ElVWHIk.jpg]
#8
Got that walnut beauty you made me sitting right next to my guitar chair all day long.

U da man Curt.
#9
I got this one...[Image: Sagd1H3.jpg][Image: eS3pD38.jpg]
#10
Cutting a new nut is a job I’d personally take to a pro. A couple of pictures in this thread are reinforcing that position.


Users browsing this thread:
2 Guest(s)